THE ITALIAN DESIGNER KRIZIA HAS DIED LEAVING A HUGE GAP IN THE WORLD OF ITALIAN EXCELLENCE
Editor in Chief Giulia De Martin, behindmyglasses.com
Μίμησιν μὲν γὰρ δὴ καὶ ἀπεικασίαν τὰ παρὰ πάντων ἡμῶν ῥηθέντα χρεών που γενέσθαι.
All that is said by any of us can only be imitation and representation.
Plato, Critias (dialogue).
Mariuccia Mandelli would have turned 91 in January but, the Italian designer, AKA Krizia, has died the 7th of December in her Milanese apartment. By her side, her beloved husband Aldo Pinto.
Mariuccia was working as an elementary teacher when she decided to pick a nickname from Plato’s Critias, turning it into her own fashion brand. In a two rooms apartment in Milan, Mariuccia/Krizia and her friend Flora Dolci started to build what would become, later on, a world of Italian excellence and a new fashion empire.
In 1957, she starts to design and produce her collections, characterized by smooth surfaces, simple lines and innovative shapes. Krizia fights the usual aesthetic of her time and she shocks the SAMIA (Salone mercato internazionale dell’abbigliamento) with a fruit printed dresses. Her fashion vision will gain her the nickname of “Crazy Krizia”.
“Every woman should dress as she pleases as long as what she wears becomes part of her.”
Next came a striking black and white collection presented at the Pitti Palace in Florence in 1964. She was the first woman to win the “Critica della moda” prize.
Later on Krizia’s models with “mini” hot pants lead to the Tiberio d’oro award in Capri and the titles of Commendatore della Repubblica Italiana in 1986, the Donna Ideale Leader in 1988 or the Premio Maschera D’Oro for her career in 1996.
Now the Milanese Palazzetto Melzi D’Eril, the base of the company’s headquarters that Mariuccia Mandelli bought in 1984, host her main showroom as well as a cultural centre, where Sting, Isabel Allende, Dario Fo are only some of the famous names who appeared on its stage.
Mariuccia started her path with the name of a man of Plato’s entourage; a man who talks about women’s vanity. Then, she ended up designing her own fashion vanity, creating a unique taste and giving Italy another reason to be proud of.
Irizza Fall Winter 2015 2016